I spent a week in South Africa — here's everything we experienced
- Maiken Fortes
- 13 minutes ago
- 13 min read
In partnership with Newmark Hotels
After years of talking about it, and with the UK slipping into that annual cycle of rain, wind and the relentless question of why it gets dark at 4pm, we finally booked a November escape to South Africa with the help of Newmark Hotels. And honestly, it felt like stepping into another universe. One minute you are clutching a hot water bottle in London, the next you are on safari watching the sun rise, and then rounding off the trip in Cape Town with blue skies and ocean air. Bliss.
Table of contents 📝
💡 Useful tips before heading to South Africa
When to Go
South Africa is a year round destination, but the best time depends on what you want from your trip. The dry winter months from May to September are ideal for safari because the grass is lower and wildlife is easier to spot. Cape Town and the Garden Route shine from November to March with warm days, blue skies and perfect beach weather. Late November, when we visited, offers the best of both worlds
Getting Around
Major cities like Cape Town are easy to navigate with Uber or hotel-arranged transfers. If you are comfortable driving, hiring a car gives you more flexibility for day trips, wine estates and scenic routes. For safaris, most lodges organise transfers from the nearest airport. Domestic flights are also frequent and reliable, which makes combining different regions simple.
Where to Stay Choose your base depending on your travel style. Cape Town is perfect for food lovers and scenery seekers, with areas like Camps Bay, V&A Waterfront and Sea Point offering different vibes. For safari, options range from private game reserves to larger lodges, each offering a different level of luxury and wildlife viewing. If you want a little bit of everything, pairing a safari with Cape Town works beautifully.
What to Pack
Pack lightweight clothing for the day, a warm layer for cooler evenings and neutral colours if you are heading on safari. Comfortable shoes are essential for walking safaris or exploring Cape Town’s coastal paths. Bring sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat and insect repellent, plus a small backpack for game drives. A portable charger will also come in handy if your lodge experiences load shedding.
Food and Drink
South Africa has an incredible food scene, from award-winning restaurants in Cape Town to open braais in the bush. The seafood is excellent and the wine regions are some of the best in the world, so leave room in your itinerary for a tasting or two. Tap water is safe to drink in most cities, but bottled water is still the safest option in rural areas and during safari.
Cultural Etiquette
South Africa is multicultural, warm and welcoming. A friendly greeting goes a long way, and tipping is common practice in restaurants and on safari. When taking photos, especially in local communities, always ask permission first. In nature reserves, follow your guide’s instructions and keep a respectful distance from wildlife.
Preparing your trip beforehand
Before heading off to South Africa, a little planning goes a long way. Beyond the safaris and scenic coastlines, it is worth sorting a few essentials in advance, from visas and vaccinations to safety and insurance.
Money - Cards are widely accepted in cities and tourist areas, but bring some South African Rand for tips, markets and rural stops. ATMs are easy to find, but avoid using ones at night or in very quiet areas.
Entry Requirements - UK passport holders do not currently need a visa for stays of up to 90 days, but always double check the latest guidance before you travel. Make sure your passport has at least two blank pages for entry stamps.
Travel Insurance - A must for any trip, especially when activities like safari, hiking, shark diving or car hire are involved. Confirm that your policy covers medical care, cancellations and your electronic devices.
Vaccinations and Health - Speak to your GP or a travel clinic well in advance. Depending on your itinerary, you may need vaccinations or malaria tablets, particularly if you are visiting certain safari regions. You can check the latest health advice on the NHS Fit for Travel website.
Connectivity - Consider purchasing a mobile eSIM before you arrive. It is easier than swapping out SIM cards and ensures you have data for navigation, bookings and safety from the moment you land.
Day 1-3: Arriving into the wild
After an overnight flight from London and a smooth arrival into Johannesburg O.R. Tambo International Airport, our adventure began with a transfer out to Qwabi Private Game Reserve. The drive took us away from the city and deeper into wide open landscapes where the horizon seemed to stretch forever. By the time we reached the reserve, the pace of travel had already shifted. The air felt warmer, the light softer, and that familiar buzz of London life started to fall away. Arriving at Qwabi felt like stepping straight into a new rhythm, one that revolved around early mornings, wildlife calls and the quiet sense of anticipation that only safari can bring.
First Impressions & Setting
First impressions at Qwabi Letamo and Qwabi Baobohi? Pure serenity from the moment we arrived. Both lodges sit within the vast Qwabi Private Game Reserve, yet each surprised us with its own character and atmosphere. Letamo feels warm and earthy with a classic, nature-led design, while Baobohi carries a slightly more modern, elevated edge. Stepping into each space felt like entering a calm, open sanctuary where the wild landscape is the real showpiece.
The welcome was exactly what you hope for after a long journey. Cool towels, a refreshing drink and staff who greet you like old friends. Any fatigue from travelling slipped away almost instantly. Instead of chandeliers or polished marble, the luxury here comes from soft natural light, wide decks overlooking the bushveld and the sound of wildlife drifting across the reserve. It is the kind of arrival that immediately anchors you in the moment.
Qwabi Private Game Reserve sits within the Waterberg region, known for its dramatic mountain backdrops and sprawling plains. It feels remote enough to completely disconnect, yet close enough to reach without the need for lengthy transfers or internal flights. Watching the landscape unfold as we explored both lodges made it clear why this area has been designated a UNESCO biosphere. Everything around you feels raw, protected and beautifully alive.
Fun fact: The Waterberg is one of the first UNESCO-declared biosphere reserves in southern Africa, which means you are staying in a region celebrated not only for its beauty but also for its conservation significance.
Rooms
Across both Qwabi Letamo and Qwabi Baobohi, the rooms strike that perfect balance between contemporary comfort and a deep sense of place. Each lodge has its own personality, yet both share the same thoughtful approach to design, allowing the surrounding wilderness to take centre stage.
At Qwabi Letamo, the rooms feel warm and inviting, with earthy tones, soft textures and natural materials that mirror the landscape outside. Large sliding doors open out onto private decks, giving you uninterrupted views of the bushveld and the chance to spot wildlife wandering past as you sip your morning coffee. The bathrooms are generous in size, complete with rain showers, freestanding tubs and beautifully selected amenities that add a subtle touch of luxury to your daily routine.
Over at Qwabi Baobohi, the style shifts into something a little more modern, while still maintaining that grounded, nature-led aesthetic. Suites come with spacious layouts, elevated furnishings and panoramic windows that make the outdoors feel like part of the room itself. The private terraces here are especially impressive, offering sweeping vistas that change colour with each hour of the day. It is the kind of setting that encourages you to slow down, breathe and fully settle into safari life.
Across both lodges, the attention to detail stands out. Thoughtful welcome treats, cosy seating areas and perfectly placed lighting create a sense of comfort from the moment you enter. Whether you are unwinding after a game drive or waking up to the soft early morning light, the rooms at Qwabi Letamo and Baobohi manage to feel both luxurious and completely in harmony with their surroundings.
Dining Dining at Qwabi Letamo and Qwabi Baobohi is an experience shaped by the rhythm of safari life. Each lodge offers its own interpretation of refined bushveld cuisine, with menus that celebrate local ingredients and warm, comforting flavours. Mornings begin with generous breakfasts served against soft golden light, often with wildlife wandering in the distance while you sip your coffee. Lunch is relaxed and nourishing, the kind of dishes that keep you energised without weighing you down after long hours outdoors.
Evenings are where Qwabi truly shines. Whether you are seated in an elegant dining space overlooking the reserve or enjoying a dinner under the stars, the glow of lanterns and the soundtrack of the bush create a setting that feels both intimate and unforgettable. Expect beautifully plated dishes, thoughtful wine pairings and attentive staff who strike the perfect balance between warm and unobtrusive service.
During our stay, we enjoyed everything from hearty, flavourful dinners to freshly baked pastries between game drives. The meals felt generous without being overwhelming, and each day brought something new to look forward to. One of the highlights was returning from a sunrise drive to find a beautifully set breakfast waiting for us, complete with warm pastries, fresh fruit and eggs made to order. It is these small touches that make dining at Qwabi feel so special.
Experiences Staying at Qwabi Letamo and Baobohi offers more than just luxury accommodation. The experiences here are designed to connect you with the surrounding landscape in a meaningful, immersive way. Your day naturally begins with sunrise game drives, where expert guides share stories about the reserve, track wildlife and bring the bush to life with their knowledge. Sundowners are another staple of safari life, timed perfectly with the golden light stretching across the Waterberg mountains.
Between drives, the lodges offer peaceful spaces to relax, unwind and soak in the scenery. The pools overlook wide plains, the decks are ideal for quiet afternoons with a book, and the staff are always ready with local tips or stories about the wildlife you may spot nearby. If you are curious to learn more, both lodges can arrange guided bush walks, allowing you to appreciate the finer details often missed from a vehicle.
Evenings at Qwabi are their own kind of magic. After dinner, you can sit around the firepit or 'Boma', stargaze beneath skies far clearer than anything at home and listen to the distant sounds of the reserve settling into night. The combination of nature, comfort and warm hospitality makes every day feel deeply grounding.
One of our favourite moments was pausing mid-safari for a scenic coffee break as the sun climbed higher, followed by sunset drinks in a spot so perfectly placed, it felt like the entire Waterberg had been painted just for us. It is these thoughtful touches that make your time at Qwabi feel truly unforgettable.
Day 4-8: Mountains, coastlines and city life
📍Future Found Sanctuary 10 Hunters Way, Hout Bay, Cape Town, 7806, South Africa
Leaving the stillness of safari behind and flying into Cape Town felt like shifting into an entirely new chapter. One moment we were watching zebras graze beneath the morning sun, and a few hours later we were driving along leafy streets with Table Mountain towering above us like a real-life screensaver. Cape Town has this way of immediately making you sit up a little straighter. It feels vibrant, creative and effortlessly cool, yet still relaxed enough that you never feel rushed. After days of dawn wake-up calls, the prospect of lie-ins and ocean air felt like the perfect reset.
And of course, stepping off the plane into a warm, sunny breeze while the UK is somewhere under a cloud of drizzle? That alone felt like a victory.
First Impressions & Setting: Future Found Sanctuary
You can tell this place is calming in a way that almost feels designed to undo every trace of city stress. Set at the foot of Table Mountain, the property feels like a secret pocket of tranquillity tucked away from the buzz of Cape Town. Think lush gardens, soft sunlight filtering through trees and an immediate sense of slowing down the moment your suitcase touches the ground.
Where Qwabi wrapped us in wilderness, Future Found Sanctuary cocooned us in wellness. Each building blends natural textures, earthy tones and elegant minimalism, creating the kind of space where you start speaking in a softer voice without realising it. Staff welcomed us with warm smiles, a welcome drink and a tour that felt more like being shown around a friend’s beautiful home rather than a hotel.
It is the sort of place where you can genuinely feel your nervous system recalibrating.
Rooms
The rooms at Future Found Sanctuary feel like the grown-up version of a wellness retreat, mixing natural materials with generous comfort. Floor to ceiling windows bring the mountain and gardens right into the room, making it impossible not to wake up feeling grounded. Soft linen bedding, curated artwork and those perfectly placed touches (think signature scents and artisanal teas) create a sense of calm that is very hard to leave behind.
The bathrooms are worth a mention too. Large, bright and spa-like, with deep soaking tubs and products that smell far too good for you not to consider buying them at check-out. It is the kind of space where even brushing your teeth feels like a mindful moment. Dining
Dining at Future Found Sanctuary feels less like eating in a traditional hotel and more like being welcomed into a beautifully curated private home. The entire concept here centres around nourishment, balance and intentional living, and the food reflects that perfectly. With an in-house chef preparing each meal, everything feels personal, thoughtful and rooted in the idea of eating well rather than eating endlessly.
Breakfast sets the tone for the day, served with seasonal fruits, warm pastries and dishes made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. It is calm, unhurried and incredibly grounding, especially with the gardens and mountain views framing every moment. Lunch and dinner follow the same philosophy, offering vibrant, wholesome plates that leave you satisfied without ever feeling heavy.
What makes the dining experience so special is the intimacy of it all. Meals are prepared with care, served in spaces that feel warm and homely, and enjoyed at a pace that encourages you to slow down and breathe. It feels like staying with a friend who happens to be an exceptional chef, and every dish arrives with that same understated, nurturing touch.
It is elevated, but in the most comforting and human way — the kind of dining experience that lingers with you long after you leave.
📍V&A Hotel
Dock Rd, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, 8001, South Africa
First Impressions & Setting: V&A Hotel, Waterfront
After two days of wellness and serenity, arriving at the V&A Hotel on the Waterfront felt like flipping the switch back to city mode. The harbour was buzzing with energy, boats drifting in and out, musicians performing along the promenade and Table Mountain standing as the most dramatic backdrop you could ever ask for. It is lively in the best way, and the location is unbeatable.
The hotel has that classic Cape Town charm, with spacious rooms and large windows overlooking either the harbour or the mountain. After days in the quiet of nature, waking up to the gentle hum of the Waterfront felt particularly refreshing. There is something about watching people stroll along the marina while sipping your morning coffee that feels incredibly satisfying.
And yes, we absolutely embraced being “tourists” at this point. When the setting is this iconic, who wouldn’t?
Rooms
Our room at the V&A Hotel was spacious and bright, with views that instantly pull you into Cape Town life. Whether you choose mountain-facing or harbour-facing, you are guaranteed a scene worth waking up for. The interiors are classic and comfortable, with large beds, generous bathrooms and little touches that make it feel homely without losing its elegance.
It is the perfect base for exploring, especially when everything from shopping to boat trips to sunset dining is just steps away.
Dining
Being right on the Waterfront, you are spoilt for choice when it comes to food, but Ginja the hotel’s signature restaurant, deserves a special mention. Set right along the harbour’s edge, it serves a generous breakfast each morning with fresh fruit, pastries, made-to-order eggs and a relaxed open-air setting that makes everything taste better. There is something incredibly satisfying about sipping your first coffee of the day while the harbour slowly comes to life around you.
In the evenings, Ginja offers a menu that blends comforting favourites with South African flavours, all served with those postcard-perfect views of Table Mountain. It is ideal if you want a relaxed dinner without venturing far, especially after a busy day exploring the city.
For nights out, the entire Waterfront becomes your culinary playground. Seafood, steakhouses, sushi bars, tapas spots — you name it, it is all within a few minutes’ walk. We dipped into a handful of restaurants during our stay, each offering its own slice of Cape Town’s vibrant dining scene. The combination of good food, salty air and sunset colours on the mountain is hard to beat.
Facilities & The Dock House
One of the standout perks of staying at the V&A Hotel is the access to The Dock House, a neighbouring boutique-style property that feels like a hidden gem. Guests can enjoy its private pool, tranquil garden and peaceful lounging areas, which offer a calm escape from the Waterfront’s livelier energy. It is the perfect spot for an afternoon wind-down, especially if you want hotel-level comfort without the crowds.
Additionally, facilities include a well-equipped gym, attentive concierge services and easy access to boat tours, shopping, spas and all the attractions surrounding the marina. The beauty of staying here is the balance: you have the buzz of the Waterfront on your doorstep, but oasis-like pockets of calm whenever you need them.
🗺️ Where we visited during our Cape Town stay
Boulders Beach
Home to Cape Town’s famous colony of African penguins. It is a gentle, easy outing and genuinely one of those places that makes you stop and smile like a kid. The boardwalks take you right above the water where penguins waddle, swim and occasionally argue over pebbles.
🔗 Location
Cape of Good Hope
A dramatic coastline that feels like the edge of the world. Expect sweeping views, strong winds and landscapes that look like they belong in a nature documentary. A good half day trip if you pair it with Boulders Beach.
🔗 Location
Groot Constantia
South Africa’s oldest wine estate, set among rolling vineyards and mountain views. Perfect for a long, lazy wine tasting or a scenic lunch. The grounds alone are worth the visit.
🔗 Location
Franschhoek
One of our favourite strolls in the city. This preserved street feels like stepping back in time and it makes a perfect pitstop for souvenirs and matcha soft-serve.
🔗 Location
Table Mountain via the Platteklip Gorge Hike
A straight up hike and not for the faint hearted, but incredibly rewarding. Platteklip is the most direct route to the top and offers stunning panoramas the entire way. Bring water, sunscreen and a very honest conversation with your fitness level.
🔗 Location
Oranjezicht City Farm Market
A weekend favourite that blends organic produce, artisanal food stalls and independent makers. It is one of those markets where you say you will “just look” and inevitably leave with snacks, pastries and something handmade for the house. 🔗 Location
Bo Kaap
A colourful, historic neighbourhood known for its bright houses, Cape Malay culture and unbeatable photo spots. Lovely for a slow stroll and a stop at one of the local restaurants for a traditional Cape Malay curry.
🔗 Location
City Sightseeing Hop On Hop Off Bus
Touristy in theory, brilliant in practice. It covers all the major attractions without the stress of driving or navigating, and you can get off wherever you fancy. It is an easy and underrated way to see a lot in one day.
Book your next stay in South Africa with Newmark Hotels
This stay was gently offered by the Newmark hotel group. All views and opinions here are as usual my own.
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